by Navid Ganji
The ancient ruins of Susa, now known as Shush, are one of Iran’s most remarkable historical treasures. Located in the Khuzestan province, this city holds the key to over 4,000 years of civilization, serving as the heart of several major empires throughout history. As you step into the site, the past seems to whisper through the ruins, offering a rare glimpse into the cultures, dynasties, and architectural marvels that once shaped this part of the world.

1. First Impressions: The Gate to Ancient Persia
Arriving at the archaeological site of Shush is like stepping into a time machine. As you approach the ruins, you are greeted by the sight of remnants of towering walls, scattered columns, and the outlines of structures that once stood proud in this flourishing city. The vastness of the site is awe-inspiring, with its open spaces revealing the remains of temples, palaces, and fortifications that span various periods of history, from the Elamite civilization to the Achaemenid Empire.
The desert heat is palpable, and the stillness of the site adds to the sense of reverence and quiet awe. There is an overwhelming sense that the stories of ancient kings, conquerors, and scholars still linger in the air.
2. The Architecture: A Fusion of Ancient Civilizations
The ruins of Susa showcase the incredible architectural achievements of several major civilizations. Originally founded by the Elamites around 4,000 years ago, Shush later became a prominent city under the rule of the Achaemenid Empire and beyond. Walking through the ruins, you can see the fusion of ancient Persian and Elamite architectural styles, with massive mudbrick walls and intricate stone carvings that tell the story of the city’s past.

One of the most impressive structures is the towering ziggurat of Chogha Zanbil, which still stands tall and proud despite the passage of time. This massive mudbrick temple was dedicated to the Elamite god Inshushinak and remains a remarkable example of ancient architecture.
As you stroll through the site, you’ll encounter a blend of wide courtyards, ceremonial halls, and monumental gates. Each corner of the site offers a different glimpse into the lives of the people who once inhabited this ancient city. The architectural diversity of Shush is an important reminder of its rich, multi-layered history and the many cultures that influenced its development.
3. Historical Significance: A Crossroad of Ancient Civilizations
Shush was not just an architectural marvel; it was also a political, economic, and cultural center. Throughout its long history, the city served as the capital of the Elamite kingdom and later as a prominent city in the Achaemenid Empire, under the rule of great Persian kings such as Darius and Xerxes.
The historical significance of Susa is hard to overstate. As one of the oldest cities in the world, it was the site of countless important events, including the coronation of Achaemenid kings and the signing of treaties between empires. Shush also housed the famous Palace of Darius, where the inscriptions of the famous Elamite king are still visible on the walls of the ruins. The city’s strategic location, near the Tigris River, made it a key hub for trade and diplomacy between ancient Mesopotamia, Persia, and beyond.
Shush also played an essential role in the religious and cultural exchange between these empires, serving as a meeting point for different gods, rituals, and artistic traditions. The ruins of the ancient city thus offer a profound connection to the past and a window into the interwoven nature of ancient civilizations.
4. The Atmosphere: Stepping Back in Time
The atmosphere in the ruins of Susa is profoundly moving. Walking through the site, you feel an undeniable connection to the past. The air is dry, the sun beats down relentlessly, and the only sounds are the occasional whisper of the wind or the footsteps of other visitors. As you explore the remnants of ancient palaces and temples, you can almost imagine the bustle of life that once filled these spaces—royal processions, sacrifices, merchants haggling, and scholars debating the great ideas of the time.
The vastness of the site leaves you feeling small, yet it also sparks a sense of wonder and reverence. The ancient structures, though weathered by centuries of exposure to the elements, still evoke a sense of awe. Every step you take seems to reveal something new—whether it’s the intricate carvings on a column, the fragments of pottery scattered across the ground, or the faint outlines of ancient roads that once connected Susa to distant lands.
5. The Preservation: A Race Against Time
The ruins of Susa are a fragile and irreplaceable part of the world’s cultural heritage. Over the centuries, the site has faced natural challenges, from erosion to the ravages of war and time. While significant efforts have been made to preserve what remains, some sections of the ruins are slowly deteriorating.
Restoration projects have been ongoing in the area, aiming to stabilize and preserve the site for future generations. These efforts include excavations, the careful restoration of key structures, and measures to protect the site from further environmental damage. However, there is still much work to be done to ensure that this ancient city’s legacy is not lost to time.
6. A Legacy of Culture and History
The legacy of Shush lies not only in its ruins but also in the profound impact it had on the development of the ancient world. As one of the most important cities in the ancient Near East, Shush was a symbol of political power, cultural exchange, and artistic achievement. Its influence spread far beyond its borders, shaping the civilizations that followed.
Visiting Susa is a deeply moving experience that allows you to reflect on the grandeur and fragility of human history. It’s a reminder that, though civilizations may rise and fall, their legacies live on in the stories told by the remnants they leave behind.
For further information or to learn more about Iran’s incredible historical sites, feel free to reach out to me at:
- Email: navidganjii@gmail.com
- LinkedIn: Navid Ganji
- Instagram: @navidganjii
What aspect of ancient Susa do you find most captivating—the architecture, the history, or the cultural exchange that took place there?