by Navid Ganji
Walking through the historic fabric of Shush (Susa) is like flipping through the pages of a living history book. The narrow, winding alleys, the centuries-old brick houses, and the vibrant life that pulses through its streets tell the story of a city that has witnessed the rise and fall of empires. Shush is not just an archaeological site—it is a place where ancient traditions still breathe, where architecture is a testament to resilience, and where the past and present coexist in a remarkable way.
1. First Impressions: A City That Time Never Forgot
Stepping into the historic quarter of Shush, you immediately feel transported to a different era. The scent of baking bread wafts through the air from traditional bakeries, the calls of vendors echo through the narrow streets, and the intricate mudbrick houses stand as silent witnesses to centuries of history.
Unlike modern cities, where glass and steel dominate the skyline, Shush embraces a more organic, earthy aesthetic. The buildings, constructed primarily from adobe and clay bricks, blend seamlessly into the warm hues of the surrounding landscape. The architecture is practical yet beautiful, designed to withstand the region’s intense heat while maintaining a strong sense of identity and cultural heritage.
2. The Architecture: A Testament to Timeless Ingenuity
The historic houses of Shush follow a unique architectural pattern, reflecting the traditional Persian and Mesopotamian styles that have influenced the city for thousands of years. Some of the most defining features include:
- Thick Mudbrick Walls: Designed to insulate against extreme heat, keeping interiors cool during the scorching summers.
- Windcatchers (Badgirs): Ingenious natural cooling systems that channel fresh air into homes, demonstrating the ancient mastery of sustainable architecture.
- Inner Courtyards: Most houses are built around lush courtyards adorned with small gardens and water features, providing a peaceful retreat from the bustling city outside.
- Intricate Wooden Doors: Many old homes still retain their ornate wooden doors, some with decorative metal knockers, each with a distinct sound for men and women—a detail rooted in Persian cultural traditions.
As I explored deeper into the labyrinth of streets, I came across centuries-old caravanserais, where traders once rested with their goods along the ancient trade routes. Though some have crumbled with time, their remnants still whisper tales of the merchants and travelers who passed through this city, connecting Persia with Mesopotamia and beyond.
3. The People: Guardians of an Ancient Culture
One of the most captivating aspects of visiting Shush’s historic fabric is the people who call it home. The locals are incredibly warm and welcoming, eager to share their stories, customs, and traditional ways of life.
I had the chance to visit a traditional pottery workshop, where an elderly craftsman, his hands coated in clay, carefully shaped a water jug using the same techniques his ancestors had employed for centuries. The rhythmic motion of his hands, the soft hum of an old song playing in the background, and the earthy smell of wet clay created an almost meditative atmosphere.
In another alley, I met a woman weaving kilims—traditional Persian rugs—on a wooden loom, her hands moving swiftly and skillfully, creating intricate patterns that have been passed down through generations. She explained how each design tells a story, capturing elements of nature, history, and personal identity within the vibrant threads.
4. A Walk Through History: Layers of Civilization
As one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Shush has seen it all—from the Elamite Kingdom to the Achaemenid and Sassanian Empires, and later, the Islamic period. Each civilization has left its mark, creating a unique layered urban landscape.
One of the most fascinating aspects of walking through the old city is seeing ancient ruins embedded within the living fabric of the town. In some places, modern homes are built atop ancient foundations, blending pre-Islamic, Islamic, and contemporary architectural elements into a singular urban tapestry.
5. The Markets: A Sensory Overload
No visit to the historic district of Shush is complete without experiencing the bazaar, where the city’s energy is most alive. The market streets are lined with vendors selling spices, dried fruits, textiles, and traditional handicrafts. The air is thick with the aromas of saffron, cardamom, and freshly brewed tea, mingling with the occasional waft of grilled kebabs from a nearby food stall.
I stopped at a small teahouse, where an elderly shopkeeper served me a glass of rosewater-infused tea, poured from an old samovar. As I sipped the aromatic drink, he recounted stories of his childhood in Shush, describing how little had changed in the heart of the old town despite the modern world’s rapid transformations.
6. The Sound of the Past, the Rhythm of the Present
One of the most striking things about walking through the historic fabric of Shush is how time moves differently here. Unlike modern cities that pulse with hurried steps and digital screens, life in the old quarter flows at a gentler rhythm.
The soundscape is a blend of distant prayers from the mosque, the chatter of artisans in their workshops, the laughter of children playing in the alleyways, and the occasional clip-clop of a donkey’s hooves on the stone-paved streets. Each sound is a reminder that this city is not a museum—it is a living, breathing community.
7. The Future of Shush’s Historic Fabric: A Race Against Time
Despite its historical importance, Shush’s old city faces growing threats from modernization and neglect. Many traditional houses are at risk of collapse, and younger generations often prefer to move into modern developments rather than preserve their ancestral homes.
However, efforts are being made to protect and restore the architectural heritage of Shush. Some old houses have been converted into boutique hotels, cultural centers, and museums, breathing new life into historic spaces while maintaining their original character.
Local organizations are also working to raise awareness about sustainable preservation, encouraging residents to see their historic homes not just as relics of the past but as valuable assets for the future.
8. Final Thoughts: A Timeless Journey
Visiting the historic fabric of Shush is not just about seeing old buildings—it’s about experiencing a way of life that has endured for centuries. It’s about hearing the echoes of ancient civilizations in the whispers of the wind, feeling the warmth of a community that holds its traditions dear, and realizing that history is not just something to be studied—it’s something to be lived.
As I walked out of the old quarter, the golden light of the setting sun cast long shadows on the mudbrick walls, turning the streets into a glowing labyrinth of memory and time. I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to witness a piece of history that, despite the challenges of modernity, still refuses to fade.
For more stories on Iran’s historical sites, architecture, and cultural heritage, feel free to reach out to me at:
- Email: navidganjii@gmail.com
- LinkedIn: Navid Ganji
- Instagram: @navidganjii
What intrigues you most about historic cities like Shush? Their architecture, their people, or their connection to the past?
