By Navid Ganji
My third visit to Dezful was no longer just a simple trip; this time, it was a deep dive into the soul of the city—an effort to understand its daily life, to touch its history through its ancient brick walls and bustling bazaars. If in my previous travels I had explored the city, this time, I found myself immersed in it—wandering through its narrow alleys, old houses, the murmur of the river, and the scent of freshly baked bread.
At dawn, before the city fully awakened, I stepped into the quiet streets of Dezful. The call to prayer filled the air, and the golden morning light made the old bricks glow warmly. A cool breeze carried the scent of the Dez River, mingling with the aroma of fresh bread from local bakeries. One by one, shopkeepers lifted their shutters, and the old bazaar slowly came to life.
I headed to the traditional bazaar of Dezful, a place where history and daily life intertwine. The air was filled with the rich scent of spices, the aroma of hot tea, and the rhythmic clinking of coppersmiths at work. In one shop, an elderly man was carefully arranging handwoven Dezfuli fabrics. He told me that these lightweight cotton textiles have been woven here for centuries and remain an integral part of the city’s culture.
Leaving the bazaar behind, I walked toward the Old Bridge of Dezful, standing resilient over the flowing river for more than 17 centuries. Built during the Sassanid era, this architectural marvel felt like a gateway to the past. The worn but sturdy bricks bore witness to countless floods and peaceful days alike. Standing there, watching the river flow beneath me, I could almost hear the echoes of travelers from centuries ago.
From the bridge, I ventured into the old neighborhoods of Dezful, where mud-brick and adobe houses stood proudly, their wind towers still functioning, cooling the interiors just as they did centuries ago. I visited one of the historic homes that has been transformed into an eco-lodge. The central courtyard featured a blue-tiled pool, surrounded by rooms with colorful stained-glass windows. The wooden balconies and shaded terraces once hosted evening gatherings, and even today, the spirit of life still thrived within these walls.
As midday approached, I was invited into a local family’s home. They welcomed me with warm smiles and a beautifully set table of traditional dishes: Gheliyeh Mahi (spicy fish stew), Ash Ardeh (a unique tahini-based soup), and freshly baked local bread that was simply unforgettable. Our conversations began with the city’s architecture but soon turned to old tales of Dezful—stories of caravans that once brought trade from faraway lands, of bustling markets filled with exotic goods.
As evening descended, I made my way to the riverside. The sun cast an amber glow on the water, creating a breathtaking scene. Families gathered along the banks, children played by the shore, and fishermen’s boats floated in the distance. In that serene moment, Dezful felt timeless, as if the city itself was whispering its history through the rustling trees and flowing river.
📍 If you ever visit Dezful, don’t rush. Let the city embrace you. Lose yourself in its alleys, taste its food, listen to the river’s song. Don’t just see Dezful—feel it.
📧 Email: navidganjii@gmail.com
📸 Instagram: @navidganjii
🔗 LinkedIn: Navid Ganji
